We’re just back from a short break in the lovely Hunter Valley. Not ones to let a little rain dampen our days, we managed to pack a lot into a week. We bought a lot of good food, plenty of wine and spent a lot of time lounging around waiting for the rain to stop (which it didn’t) which eventually turned into just generally lounging. Ah! Il dolce far niente!! Brilliant!
We went to the Lovedale Smokehouse which was a bit of a mixed bag. I would have loved to have seen the actual smokehouse and learned a little about how they did things, but it was hidden behind a gaggle of buildings labelled “Staff Only”. Instead, to one side of the large restaurant, there is a small glass-fronted fridge with a variety of products for sale. They have chosen (quite rightly) hygeine over artistry, but I can’t help feeling the loss. Anyway, we bought a few things here and there and I can tell you that their vine-smoked prosciutto was the most delicious, piggy thing I’ve ever had! We’ve got sausages in the fridge but we won’t be getting to those for a while. Oh, and the Smokehouse also makes a mean latte.
We also visited The Smelly Cheese Shop which I highly recomment to all the cheese fiends out there. They carry a superlative range of domestic and imported cheese, are lavish with their tastings, and handily carry all the makings of a perfect picnic (olives, bread, drinks, cutlery and so forth). They also sell a mouthwatering selection of gelato, but we didn’t get around to that. Perhaps next time…
I also recommend the Binnorie Dairy – their marinated feta is so damn good that we took a kilo bucket home with us again. Their labneh is excellent as are their various goat-cheese. They do only the soft cheeses, but they do those awfully well!!
Our last cheese stop was the Hunter Valley Cheese Co which is in residence at the McGuigans winery complex. Again – they sell all manner of delicious things. I took a delicious washed-rind brie (stinky, unctuous, creamy, complex, delicious!!) and a smeared-rind cheese (even stinkier but ever-so silky and mild inside). I also recommend picking up a small pot of the chicken pate – excellent stuff! If they have it, see if you can grab a loaf of the apricot & fig bread they also sell and take your booty and sit on the picnic tables underneath the trees.
We didn’t grab as much wine on this trip as we did last time. We revisited the Tintilla winery. They do some excellent shiraz and sangiovese, but as The Husband was doing the tasting that day I settled for buying some delicious manzanillo olives (not too salty, and retaining a small amount of natural bitterness), and some outstanding vin cotto. Translated roughly as “cooked wine” this is a somewhat syrupy reduction of good red wine that has been infused with orange peel and cinnamon. Sweet, sour and complex, it should be used a little like balsamic vinegar (which it resembles, but nowhere near as sharp and sour). Put a little in a dish with some fresh, peppery olive oil and just dip bread into it. I used it the other night to dress a salad and it really went well with the aragula (or rocket/roquette if you prefer).
We seemed to buy a lot of olives this trip. Olives are relatively new to the Hunter (or so we were told). Introduced about 10 years ago, they’re just starting to come into commercial production and the result is some absolutely stellar oil. We bought several different varieties, but one that I love is the Pukhara Estate Extra Virgin Olive Oil with Wasabi. The oil is naturally green peppery and the wasabi is a gentle prickle on the palate – I can’t wait to pour it over mashed potatoes. My only quibble is that – so far as I can tell from the packaging – they use the standard wasabi paste to make their oil and it usually contains little to no true wasabi. It’s to be expected – the true wasabi grown in Tasmania is amazingly expensive (about $60 for two smallish roots) and hard to come by. If only they could do some sort of deal…
Lets see. What else did we do? Oh, we paid a visit to the Hunter Valley Chocolate Co and bought a large quantity of fudge. Our favourites were the chocolate/macadamia, caramel/macadamia, dark chocolate/ginger, and the plain caramel. Tooth-achingly sweet, moorish and addictive. I wish they’d do something like the Cocoa Farm chocolates that do a shiraz and merlot/pinot variety of rum and raisin. You’d think with all the wine floating around that it would be a no-brainer, but there you go. We suggested it to them. I REALLY hope they run with it.
Anyway, that’s part of what we got up to. The dodgy wi-fi, excellent pub food, ultra-expensive tapas, ant-nest terror and 4am thunderstorm will have to wait until the next installment.